morning is the best time to water vegetable and flower gardens, before the
hot sun hits them. Water deeply and infrequently. Wet foliage
overnight makes plants more susceptible to fungus and disease.
amount of water that your garden will need is going to depend on the
weather conditions in your area. The primary rule of summer watering is to
water thoroughly and deeply each time and to allow the soil dry out
watering will allow the plant's roots to grow deeper, where they are less
likely to dry out. Light, surface watering wastes water and is
harmful to plants because the water never reaches the root zone of the
plant, and the moisture rapidly evaporates from the top inch of soil.
best way to tell if your plants are receiving enough water is to take a
trowel or shovel and dig down a few inches. The soil should be moist at
least 3 or 4 inches deep to insure that the water is reaching the root
zone of the plants. If you planted drought resistant plants in your
garden, you won't have to water as often, but the principal of deep
watering still applies.
the temperatures rise, your container plants may need daily watering,
especially if the pots are exposed to the drying sunlight. Push your
finger into the soil in your container plantings at least once a day (more
often on hot, dry days) to feel for moisture and be certain that plants
are getting enough water. Apply water until it runs out the drainage
baskets of flowers or vegetable plantings need careful attention to
watering and feeding during extended periods of hot weather.
Annuals, and Bulbs
chance to plant summer bulbs (caladiums, cannas, gladiolus, etc).
container-grown perennials and summer annuals.
and water regularly - especially container gardens.
snails, slugs and other insects.
spring bulbs when tops have died down; divide and store or replant.
tall-growing flowering plants such as delphinium, hollyhocks, and lupine.
to dead head (remove dead flowers) your annuals to encourage continued
blooming. If your annuals have died off, pull them out and add them to the
compost pile. Replant that spot with hardy annuals or perennials, such as
Pansies, Calendulas, or Armeria. Get a second bloom from faded annuals by
cutting them back by one half their height, then fertilize them with a
liquid 5-10-10 fertilizer.
will need to be fertilized each month through the summer. In colder areas,
allow shrub roses to ripen by discontinuing feeding them at the end of the
should be lightly fertilized every two weeks. Discontinue pinching your
mums in mid month so they will be able to develop flower buds for the
fall. To promote 'trophy size' flowers, allow only one or two main shoots
to develop. Remove all side buds as they begin to develop.
produce the largest Dahlia flowers (especially 'Dinner plate' Dahlias),
the main stems should be kept free of side shoots, allowing only the main
terminal bud to develop. Be sure to provide adequate support to prevent
Iris may be divided and replanted when they have finished blooming.
Discard all shriveled and diseased parts.
peas may tend to fizzle out with the hot summer weather, but with heavy
mulching to keep the roots cool and moist you can prolong the flowering
season by a few more weeks. A little mid-day shade will also help to
maintain the quality of the flowers and prolong the blooming season.
Euonymus, Pachysandra, Ivy, and climbing roses are some of plants that
will root fairly quickly by layering them into the warm soil. Fasten a
section of the stem containing one or more "eyes" down onto
cultivated soil with a horseshoe shaped piece of wire and cover it with
additional soil. By summers end, the stem should be rooted sufficiently to
sever it from the parent plant and replant into another area of the
seeds of Hollyhocks, English daisies, Foxgloves, Violas, Canterbury bells,
and Sweet William into the garden now for next year's bloom.
cuttings may be made in late July to start plants for indoor bloom during
the winter months, and for setting into the garden next spring. You may
need to provide supplemental lighting with fluorescent grow lights for
really good winter blooms indoors.
plants to help retain moisture.
powdery mildew with fungicide.
aphids and whiteflies.
container-grown trees and shrubs this month.
newly planted shrubs during dry periods.
blooming shrubs should be pruned for shape after they have finished
flowering. Remove any dead or diseased branches.
flowering shrubs like Rhododendrons, Camellias and Azaleas
immediately after they have finished flowering with a 'Rhododendron'
or 'Evergreen' type fertilizer.
head the developing seed pods from your Rhododendrons and Azaleas to
improve next years bloom. Be careful not to damage next years buds
which may be hidden just below the pod.
insecticides to control spittle bugs, grubworms, and fire ants.
need at lease one inch per week. If a water shortage is expected, or
you hate tending to grass, you may choose to just let your lawn go
dormant, and water it as seldom as once a month.
the cutting height of the mower. Taller grass cools the roots and
helps to keep the moisture in the soil longer.
using fertilizers in hot, dry weather.
plants can be moved outside to a shady, protected spot.
to watch for insect or disease damage and take the necessary steps
to control the problem.
weather means it will be necessary to water and mist your house
plants more often, as will drier air in air-conditioned homes.
your house plants with 1/2 the recommended strength of a good
soluble house plant fertilizer while they are actively growing.
humming bird "nectar" regularly.
annuals, perennials and shrubs that attract birds and butterflies.
a water source and clean and replace water daily or more often in
your feeders full - second broods are fledging now, and third broods
chance to plant summer vegetables-squash, cucumber, tomatoes,
pepper, peas, beans, pumpkin.
plantings of beets, bush beans, carrots, cauliflower, broccoli,
lettuce, kale, and peas will provide fall and winter crops.
enjoying the harvest of your homegrown fruits, vegetables and herbs!
June bearing strawberries after the harvest, and ever-bearing
varieties half way through the season.
out successions of salad crops for continued harvesting throughout
the summer. Sow seeds for cool-season crops directly into the garden
to protect your fruit from the birds with netting.
areas of the garden, where the crops have finished, should be
replanted with either a fall vegetable crop, or a cover crop of
clover or vetch to help control weeds. Cover crops can be tilled
into the soil later, to add humus and nitrates to the soil.
blueberry bushes with netting to keep birds from eating all the
staked tomatoes, keep removing suckers. Watch for fungus
infections (prune for air circulation, pick off affected leaves,
treat with approved fungicide).
leafy vegetables for caterpillars and leaf-eaters. Control with
Bacillus thuringiensis or Sevin. Never use Sevin during bloom period
or in the presence of bees.
soil up around base of potatoes, gather and eat a few
"new" potatoes from each hill.
and fertilize rhubarb and asparagus beds, water deeply to develop
crowns for next year. A mulch of compost or rotted cow manure works
traps to catch adult apple maggot flies. You can use pheromone traps
to monitor presence of pests.
filbert trees for filbertworm.
peach and plum trees for root borers, fungi.
spray for codling moth and fungus diseases in apple and pear trees.
alert to slug and snail and insect damage. Some of these creatures
will be hiding during the heat of the day, but will come out of
hiding in the cool morning and evening hours or after a rain. Seek
and destroy adults and their eggs.
the weeds pulled, before they have a chance to flower and go to seed
again. Otherwise, you will be fighting newly germinated weed seed
for the next several years.
the water in your bird bath regularly, and keep it filled. Standing
water may become a breeding ground for mosquito larvae.
to watch for insect or disease damage throughout the garden, and
take the necessary steps to control the problem.